Sangencha

At Sangencha, one of the pleasures of kaiseki is looking forward to the meal’s final course: Omi rice cooked in a clay pot. In one diner’s account, the rice from Hino, Shiga Prefecture, was so moist that they wanted to ask for seconds again and again. Another lunch review describes tasting the freshly cooked rice plain at first, then adding salt, salted kelp, shirasu or pickles. Changing the accompaniments little by little lets the rice take centre stage right to the end of the meal.

The hassun, a seasonal assortment, also left a strong impression on some diners for its visual presentation. One serving was arranged to evoke scattered autumn leaves and snow, catching the attention of guests at the counter as it arrived. The same account mentions a lidded soup whose fragrance rose when it was opened, as well as grilled Spanish mackerel in miso. In another course, a soup of yellowtail and Shogoin daikon stood out for its ginger-scented broth, while an accompanying sashimi dish was served with mascarpone cheese soy sauce. The menu changes with the season and course, but part of the pleasure of kaiseki is finding something different to appreciate in each dish, from soup and hassun to sashimi.

For those who enjoy pairing sake with their meal, the counter offers another way to savour the experience. One diner recalled matching Daijiro, a sake from Shiga, with funazushi, and felt that Gangi, from Yamaguchi, stood up to the fermented sushi’s acidity. Another diner described enjoying several different styles of sake alongside the food. If you would like to focus on the pairings, you could request a counter seat when making a reservation.

Some diners have watched the chefs at work from the first-floor counter; others have taken their time over a lunch course in a private room on the second floor. Reservations are recommended for both lunch and dinner, particularly if you would like to discuss how you’ll spend your time at the restaurant.